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Showing posts with label via Tuscolana. Show all posts
Showing posts with label via Tuscolana. Show all posts

Friday, November 4, 2016

Quadraro: Street Art Center of Rome's Southeast


In the piece above, street artist Mauro Maupal depicts an unhappy she-wolf, biting her tail over the departure of her adopted children, Romulus and Remus--the mythic founders of Rome--each with a roller-bag, headed for what they imagine to be cities of greater opportunity, or perhaps more cultural depth: Berlin, Dublin, London, and Paris.  (The title "esodati" suggests the artist's own, somewhat different interpretation; it refers to workers penalized by the 2011 Italian pension reform, here seeking cheaper European destinations).

Buff baby with Mickey, by Ron English
We wouldn't begrudge anyone an artistic residency in Berlin, especially, but Rome has recently become a world center of wall-size street art, and Quadraro, incredibly, is one of its key nodes.  The Romulus and Remus piece is just one of many (at least 15, as many as 30) street art productions in this near-in suburb just southeast  of the city, with a small-town feel, that spans both sides of the busy Via Tuscolana,  Most, though not all, of Quadraro's open-air art collection is located on the east side of that major thoroughfare, and a substantial portion is concentrated within a few blocks.  You'll see a lot in half an hour and feel more than satisfied after just an hour of strolling.

We would begin with the short tunnel that goes under Via Tuscolana between Via Decio Mure (on the west) and Via Lentuli (on the east).  The west end features a big mouth, teeth and all, sucking in street signs, plants, umbrellas, dishes, whatever--into what used to be blackness (the interior of the tunnel is now white, perhaps to encourage pedestrians, who might otherwise be intimidated by the darkness).  The artist is Mr. Thoms.  The other side of the tunnel isn't quite so powerful.
Tunnel attracts locals
Now on the east side of the highway, the supporting wall for Via Tuscolana offers an array of worthy art.  Dilko's girl--the one with mini-mouse ears--attracted our attention.  Colors go in one ear, black and white (and hardware of various kinds) out the other.  She 's got something in her hand that she seems to be cranking, but what it is we don't know.  We also liked one of the minor pieces, a rough-cut look at a mouse and the hole he lives in--just to the Dilko girl's right.  .

Channeling Modigliani 
The neighborhood in back is full of surprises, all within a few blocks, including Jim Avignon's sensuous, and mostly undressed, woman done in 1930 style (on Via Dei Pisoni); a bulked-up, ripped, green baby surrounded by popular culture icons, including Mickey in a gas mask; and some frogs gorging themselves on what appear to be glass beads but may have some link to computer programming, given the ones and zeros on the banner above; a lovely new-age design, anchored by a tree; and "The Departure of Romulus and Remus," with which we opened this post.  .

Somewhere on our trek (wish we could remember where!) we came across a large map--once apparently distributed--with locations and artists of some of the works.  For what it's worth, here it is. The Xs mark the location of art works.  You can also locate the works using the app: streetartroma (also listed in the app store as Streetart Rome).   The app is much better than the web site, and you can use the app is quite understandable as a map - and it's in English.


Street artist Alessandro Sardella decorated the facade of an automobile repair shop.
Bill

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Progress....in Tuscolano!

Every edition of La Repubblica, Italy's rough equivalent of the New York Times, contains something--an article or a letter to the editor--about how dirty and unkempt Rome is.  RST couldn't agree more.  But now and then--this may be the first time, actually--we are surprised to observe a change for the better, some place that's been cleaned up in some substantial way, making a difference in the urban scene.

It happened not long ago, in the quartiere of Tuscolano, a gritty neighborhood near the (Tuscolano) train station.  As an exit strategy, we were spending two nights at the Holiday Inn Express, a modern hotel that's at most a 6-minute walk from the station, where we can catch the train for the Fiumicino airport for about 1/8 the cost of a taxi.

Anyway, while there we went to the station to buy tickets and check on times.  The route took us under the railway overpass.  In October of 2011, it looked like this:

Via Tuscolana, October 2011



Nine months later, our jaws dropped when we passed the same area.  A work crew had been through, clearing brush and debris.  Repairs had been made in the concrete.  One could actually sit here now.  And some advertisers had invested in the space.  You never know.

Via Tuscolana, July 2012

Bill

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Refuse Truck as Art

Our via Tuscolana neighborhood is served by mobile refuse workers who operate from small trucks that carry their buckets and brooms.  These refuse trucks have also become the favorites of graffiti artists, who have applied their paints in a playful way, adding a nice touch to the streetscape.  The shot below was taken on via Tuscolana. 
Bill

Thursday, September 8, 2011

On Via Tuscolana

We're happily ensconced in new digs off via Tuscolana, one of 7 Roman Consular roads leading out of the city (this one goes east and south to the ancient city of Tuscolo [hence the name] in the Alban Hills).  Via Tuscolana begins about a mile from here, near the roundabout Re di Roma, goes under the train tracks and by the Tuscolana station--close enough to our apartment so that we could (and did) walk from there, with all our bags.  Dianne was exhilarated by the effort, and I write that without irony. 

Once settled in, we headed for one of the many (rather ordinary) bars on via Tuscolana, ordered a large ("grande") bottle of beer, two glasses ("due bicchieri") and something to nibble ("stuzzuchini"--in this case, potato chips), took it all outside to a table in the shade and watched the Roman world go by--or, should I say, the rather scruffy, middle-class Roman world of busy via Tuscolana (at via Amelia), still on holiday. 

We hadn't been there five minutes when a dumpster-diver came along, looking for whatever (see pic at right--you'll have to lean forward; the guy kinda blends in).







More photogenic was the young woman who picked our corner to perform her ice cream cone.  Ah, Roma.
Bill