How Not To Come Off Monte Mario

 

We 2 "pilgrims" reflected in the glass of the now-closed Lo Zodiaco cafe'

at the top of Monte Mario. Great views still available.

Never ones to shy away from hard truths, your RSTers went last year to mourn at the site of the now-closed Lo Zodiaco cafe' (the bar also is closed). Not long ago, it was a lovers' (and families' and anyone liking a good view) hangout (- he path along the front of it is called "vialetto degli Innamorati" ["Lovers' Lane"]).

We walked up our usual way, from via Gormezzina, near Piazzale Maresciallo Giardino (admitttedly around a closed gate - but the "herd path" was clear), enjoying the wide switchbacks on sampietrini (cobblestones) mostly maintained by the non-profit RomaNatura (the informational boards along the way now are mostly destroyed). (Monte Mario came in at #11 on RST's Top 40, and is an itinerary in our guidebook, Rome the Second Time.)

We checked out the usual cafes in Piazzale delle Medaglie d'Oro (at the end of it, you can see signs for the via Francigena--St. Francis's way, now tantalizingly close to its Vatican destination). Then, in hindsight foolishly, we decided to take the paths that ran down and across the winding, very curvy, not always well-banked road we had scootered down several times, but also had walked down: viale dei Cavalieri di Vittorio Veneto, just below the Hotel Rome Cavalieri.

MAP AT END OF POST

Except the paths seemed to be nonexistent, and we found ourselves plastered against the retaining walls in an effort not to be run over.

Left photo, paths in bad shape.

Friends to whom we described our trek later that night said, "oh, you mean K-2"--that's the name for this outrageously speedy and dangerous separated "highway."

Right photo, Dianne hesitates as any shoulder is about to disappear.

Left photo. No shoulders - or even ditches or brush - wide enough to feel safe.

On closer inspection, the road we just came down on still sports a slogan to the Lazio Ultra (generally right-wing) Gabriele Sandri, killed in 2007 (hence the "Vive"), about whom Bill posted in 2011 here.

We finally got off this road on via Romeo Romei, which skirts the back of (more like a parking lot for) the national Appeals Court. It was under heavy scaffolding on the day we walked by.

All of which is to say, we won't do this one again!

Map below shows Piazzale delle Medaglie d'Oro at top left, Lo Zodiaco (as if it were still open) top center, and the walking path switchbacks leading up to it going off at right.

The big curvy dark stuff in the center was "our path," i.e. the road, leading down to the Corte d'Appelo.

No, don't try this yourselves.

Dianne

Diablo Vive: The Life and Death of a Lazio "Ultra"

Diablo. Diablo, face and name, are all over the in-the-city Tuscolana neighborhood, around Piazza Re di Roma, where we're living on this trip to Rome. 

And who is Diablo? Diablo, aka Diabolik, is (that is, was) Fabrizio Piscitelli, the "capo"/head of the Lazio Ultras, a far-right organization of fans of the Lazio football team, the arch-rival of AS-Roma (both teams play in Rome, Lazio being the name of the province). In the photo below, Diablo is closely associated with Gabriele Sandri, also an Ultra fan of the Lazio team. In 2007, while on the road to a game with rival Milan, Sandri was shot and killed at an Autostrada service area by a highway patrol police officer. (We wrote about the latter, "Gabbo," in 2011.)

Diablo was shot, twice, in the back of the head, on August 7, 2019, while sitting on a bench at Parco degli Aquedotti (Aqueduct Park - #2 on RST's Top 40!), off via Tuscolana, southwest of the city center. (It doesn't take a genius to figure out that if wall-writing says "X vive" ("X lives"), X is dead.) 

Diablo's killer, disguised as a jogger, was later identified by video surveillance cameras. In the newspaper photo below (published April 15, 2023), Diablo, having just been shot, is circled in red. The presumed shooter, Raul Esteban Calderon (circled in blue as he flees the scene), was found guilty of a second shooting (of another person) and sentenced to 12 years in prison. 

Piscitelli had risen to prominence within the Irriducibili, an extreme group of fringe fans of the Lazio team. In 2015, he was sentenced to 4 years and 6 months in prison for trading in drugs. 

Bill 

From Dianne - why are such lowlifes revered?

The Fans of Lazio: C.M.L. '74, Il Tassinaro

Lazio fans, on the Curva Nord

With apologies to fans of the soccer club AS Roma, and with a sense of betrayal (for Roma is our team, too), we can't help bringing our readers just a bit of Lazio--the "other" Rome team--lore.  We found it on the walls and sidewalks of Rome, especially on the walls and sidewalks of Monteverde Nuovo, where we've been living.  The references began appearing after the Lazio victory over Roma in the finals of the Coppa Italia in late May, 2013--a bitter defeat for Roma, a thrilling victory for Lazio.   

Some of the writing was simple:  "Lazio Campione," referring to the team's triumph in the Italian
Cup, written in huge letters across an intersection in a suburb south of Rome. 

Or the large sidewalk letters in Monteverde, in sky blue--Lazio's team colors are sky white and sky blue (biancoceleste)--celebrating the victory and the player who scored the winning goal, the Bosnian winger, Senad Lulic.

More mysterious to us were the letters CML and, adding a date, CML '74.  CML, we learned from Roman friends over beer and ice cream, refers to Commandos Monteverde Lazio, an Ultras (hard-core) Lazio fan group founded in 1971, a few years after the first Lazio fan groups appeared.  The

What's that symbol?  A crown? S.S.L. is Societa' Sportiva Lazio

full name became CML '74 in (duh!) 1974, when the team won the Scudetto, the cup signifying victory in Serie A of the Italian League. 











Then, while working out an itinerary on "The Steps of Rome"--this one in the hills of Monteverde--

Tassinaro Vive! (Except he doesn't)  C.M.L. '74

we found CML '74 linked with "Tassinaro."  Tassinaro, usually referred to as Il Tassinaro and sometimes as Er Tassinaro, refers to Goffredo Lucarelli, the leader of Lazio's fans on the Curva Nord (the north curve of the stadium) and the most famous of the team's fans in the 1970s, the crucial decade in the formation of Lazio fan organizations.








For followers of the Lazio club, Il Tassinario was, and remains, a legend.  In 1999, his contribution to Lazio fandom

Stop  and Reflect....

was commemorated with a plaque, mounted by his personal fan club in the working-class district of Magliana, where Lucarelli had grown up.

Bill






For an earlier (one of many) post on right-wing soccer fans, see this one: http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2011/12/gabbo-death-and-life-of-gabriele-sandri.html

And, for equal time for the Roma team, and it's red and yellow colors, see: 

http://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/06/painting-town-red-and-yellow-for-roma.html

Il Tassinaro, in his younger days

 

Piazza Vescovio: the Anni di Piombo and the Murder of Francesco Cecchin



Posters honoring the memory of Francesco Cecchin, on via Tembien in the Trieste quarter.
The words above, "Raido e' Militanza" (Raido is Militance), refer to the militant group
Raido, founded in 1995. 

Italy's "Anni di Piombo" (Years of Lead) were marked by acts of terrorism carried out by extremists on the political right and left; some 2,000 persons were killed between 1969 and 1981, including the centrist Christian Democrat leader Aldo Moro, who was murdered by the left Red Brigades in 1978. 

There are several places in Rome where one can feel something of the intensity of the era, and all, curiously, are sites involving killings carried out by the left.  One is in the Jewish ghetto, on via Caetani, where an official plaque marks the spot where, on May 9, 1978, Moro's dead body was found in the trunk of an automobile; the former prime minister had been kidnapped and held prisoner for 55 days.  Another, perhaps more evocative, is on via Acca Laurenzia, a small street in the quartiere of Tuscolano.  There, on January 7, 1978, a man on a motorcycle shot and killed two members of the neofascist Fronte del Gioventu'.  This site is maintained by an organization of the far right.  (See Paul Baxa's guest post.)

Francesco Cecchin

The third site, in and around Piazza Vescovio on the northern edge of the Centro, in the quartiere of Trieste, is arguably the most significant, and not only because it contains a particularly rich collection of right-wing graffiti.  Like the site on via Acca Laurenzia, this one remembers a young neofascist:  Francesco Cecchin, also a member of the Fronte del Gioventu', thrown to his death from the apartment building at the west end of the piazza on the night of 28/29 May, 1979; he lay in a coma for 17 days before he died on June 16.  But the commemoration at Piazza Vescovio is exceedingly controversial because it is in part an official and political one, presided over by the city's right-wing mayor, Gianno Alemanno.

Mayor Gianni Alemanno (right) attends a
ceremony at the site he created, June 2012

In June 2009, while leaving a wreath of flowers to mark the anniversary of Cecchin's death, Alemanno proposed naming a street after the neofascist icon and building a monument to him.  The idea evolved.  The street became a small park in the center of the piazza and, at the suggestion of the President of the Republic, Giorgio Napoletano (a former Communist and still a leftist), Cecchin was to be identified as a victim of terrorism.  Even so, construction of the park in 2011 took residents and others by surprise. 

A wreath decorates the sign/marker for the park.  The
marker reads: Giardino Francesco Cecchin/
Vittima della Violenza Politica (1961-1979)

Opponents--politicians, intellectuals, trade union leaders, Partisan associations--joined in an open letter, asking that the area be dedicated to "all the victims of political violence."  The monument became a small plaque.  The garden was opened in June, 2011. 

Francesco Cecchin was a rather ordinary 17-year-old: not much of a student, a fan of Pink Floyd and Black Sabbath.  He had found a political home with the Fronte della Gioventu', and in the days before his death he had been putting up posters for the organization.  In the 1970s, postering was a competitive and territorial activity, and it brought Cecchin into conflict with the via Montebuono section of the CPI (the Communist Party). 

The building

On the evening of May 28, Cecchin, on foot, was followed by 2 men in a Fiat 850.  When they emerged from the car, he ran, taking refuge in a building--the one at the end of the piazza--where a friend lived. 

A closeup of one of the Cecchin posters,
depicting his murder. 

Depending on the account, he was found unconscious either in the courtyard of the condominium or on a small terrace, clutching a pack of cigarettes in one hand and keys in the other.  Authorities concluded that he had been beaten and, in all likelihood. thrown from a higher floor.  Stefan Marozza was arrested for the crime on July 1 but was released for insufficient evidence.  In retaliation for Cecchin's death, 2 hand grenades were thrown into a section of the PCI, wounding 24 persons.   A website dedicated to Cecchin concludes with these words: "Camerata Francesco Cecchin, Presente!" (The word "camerata" can be translated "comrade" or "chum"; "Presente," a military term, invokes the heroism of Italian soldiers in World War I, as well as Mussolini's Fascism).

When we visited the site in June, 2012 (soon after the anniversary of Cecchin's death), the quartiere was heavily postered with images of Cecchin, and area buildings were covered with graffiti messages. 

Indepence, Unity of the People, Tradition!
Below, a schematic fascii. 

Some of these messages are about Cecchin.  One reads "Pizza Vescovio" with a schematic fascii, symbol of Mussolini's Fascist regime (left).  The letters "NTS" likely refer to Nucleo Trieste Salario.  On the poster above,
the letters "T" and "S" refer to the quarters of Trieste and Salario.




Another has Cecchin's dates of birth and death, the words "Francesco Vive!" and a Celtic cross with the letters T and S. And another reads "Lui Vive/Lui Combatte/Cecchin Presente!" (He Lives/He Fights/Cecchin Present!). 

The drawing is of Gabriele Sandri, not Cecchin

Interestingly, most of the messages on the building where Cecchin was beaten and thrown to his death do not refer to him.  The face in the elaborate drawing belongs not to Cecchin but to Gabriele Sandri, a hard-core fan--one of the many "Ultras"--of the Lazio soccer team who in 2007 was shot and killed on the autostrada by a police officer while on the way to an away game in Milan.  

Other writings also refer to Lazio fans.  "Band Noantri" is a particular Lazio fan group, founded about 2000.  "Toffolo, Diabolik, Yuri, Paolo Liberi!" refers to Fabrizio Tofolo, Yuri Alviti, Pablo Arcivierid, and Fabrizio Piscitelli, key members of another particular Lazio fan group, the "Irriducibili" (the uncompromising ones), founded in 1987.  In 2006 they were charged with making threatening calls and jailed for various periods.  In 2007, Tofolo was shot 3 times in the legs at the entrance to his home in Rome.   

For insight into the Anni di Piombo and how that era continues to shape the politics of today's Rome, we recommend a visit to Piazza Vescovio.  It's a safe, middle-class neighborhood--with a unique history.

Bill

"Honor to a Revolutionary"