The Magic of Trajan's Market at Night

Baritone in the Great Hall

The views after dark Saturday evening at Trajan's Market (I Mercati di Traiano) were breathtaking.  The market itself was glowing with lights inside.  Add soloists from Teatro del Opera--two arias on different levels of the complex--and the night was magical.

Trajan's Market is an ancient Roman site we've enjoyed for years - mainly from the outside looking in - easy enough from via dei Fori Imperiale.  We have visited the site as paying customers once or twice in the past, always taking pleasure in its vast Roman streets, vistas, archways, rooms, and great hall (not to mention the bathrooms).

The Knights of Malta occupy this gorgeous palazzo and were preparing
for a fancy dinner on the terrazzo.

This time, and for only one Euro, it was simply spectacular. We also got in on the end of a guided tour in very clear Italian. Our guide, standing at the highest outdoor spot in the market, pointed out the places where Michelangelo and Raphaele lived, and where the Knights of Malta still own property (thanks to Pope Pio V from the province of Alessandria, hence the name of the road - now re-opened to pedestrians - and the district, Alessandrina).  He showed as well where 5 Roman castles could be seen - or at least located.  The presentation of photos showing the destruction of this area at the hands of the Fascists was intriguing as well.

This was a special evening. Anyone could take advantage of this well-documented and presented site (explanatory material in both English and Italian) for only one Euro, when the going rate is 13 Euro.

Because the market usually closes at 7.30 pm, only in the dead of winter can one have these wonderful views and the sense that one is stepping into ancient Rome.

Walking Roman roads in the market.

After all the complaining in the papers here about Rome's neglect of tourism, give Rome credit for pulling off this magnificent evening - one of several in April that the museums put on for this low price.

Dianne

Favorite Toilets Series: Trajan's Market

William Klein photo

One of the best ways to create excitement is to have a "series"--here, our Favorite Toilets Series--even if you don't have one.  But if we don't have a series, we do have a starter entry.  It's located in Trajan's Market, on the back (southeast) side, and to get  access you'll have to pay the regular fee for admission to the market.  So no matter how much you fancy toilets, we recommend you hold off seeing this one until you've got a reason to be there--say, an exhibition (we were there for the William Klein photo show--left), or just to see a really old market. 

The entrance to the men's toilet is in the photo at right; the men's facility is left, and the women's (if I recall) is right.  Watch the first step after you enter; it's a doozy, and you can easily end up admiring the restroom from floor level.  

Once inside you'll know why we like these toilets: for the magnificent contrast between the ancient structure and high modern Italian design, between the rough brick surfaces of a once-functioning market and the gleaming, stainless steel fixtures of a bathroom for tourists. 

Mosaic tile walls, nifty fluorescent look.  You just want to spend some time in here.
 
Apparently the architect decided that tourists don't use or need a toilet seat, but in Italy that's not exactly man bites dog. 

Bill