Rome Travel Guide

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Thursday, April 30, 2026

La Scoperta del Giorno (Today's Discovery): Architrave Shadows

 La Scoperta del Giorno (Today’s Discovery)

The latest in the now-and-then RST feature, La Scoperta del Giorno (the discovery of the day or, better put in English, Today’s Discovery). The Italian word “scoperta,” and its English equivalent, “discovery,” are similarly constructed; each is based on the verb “to cover” (coprire/to cover) and each is converted into “uncover” or “discover” with a prefix (the “s” in Italian, the “dis” in English).

We came up with the idea of La Scoperta del Giorno, as well as our first “scoperta,” while having cokes outside a small bar on via La Spezia, in sight of Piazza Lodi in the San Giovanni district.

Across the street was an apartment building—actually two of them—the one on the right of roughly 1920 vintage, the one on the left postwar. Looking at the 1920 building more closely, Dianne noticed that the trim/architrave above some windows on the 2nd floor (where Dianne’s finger is pointing) was uneven, intentionally incorporating a raised section on the left, and creating the shadow that drew our attention. (Just the sort of thing a builder could do when craft work was relatively inexpensive.)


And that, trivial as it may seem, is “La Scoperta del Giorno” for September 29, 2025.

Bill 


Tuesday, April 14, 2026

Trouble in Via Panama: What's a car to do?

 There's trouble on via Panama. Congestion. Delays. Honking horns. And most of it was   avoidable.

The street is located on the edge of the swank Parioli neighborhood. It may have been intended to be used mostly by locals, but instead it's a busy thoroughfare, running along the south end of Villa Ada (a massive park). Because it connects two main roads/placesthe notorious via Salaria and the very popular, heart of Parioli, Piazza Ungheriasome motorists would be tempted to use it to bypass always hectic viale Liegi, with its buses and trams. 

Last year, the city decided to reconfigure about half of via Panama, adding a wide new lane for bicycles, turning the existing bike lane into a pedestrian sidewalk, and adding cut-outs for buses. Already a one-way street heading south, vehicular traffic on via Panama was smushed into one lane. Locals don't like it.

As it turned out (reading the papers the next day), we arrived to inspect the damage just after a protest demonstration occupied the still-under-construction street. We found a remnant of the manifestazione: a chalked sign on the street, reading "Con le stampelle/Niente Bici/Serve Auto!!!" ("With the divisions, no bicycles, cars are needed")


In our humble opinion, there's just too much build-out, too much concrete (especially to provide space for people to wait for buses), and too little space for cars and trucks and scooters. 

The photos that follow (and the one above) are more or less in order, beginning at the "top" of via Panama (at Piazza Ungheria) and continuing down the street, to the point where the reconstruction ends. The photos were taken in October, 2025.











In many cities, including ones with nasty winters like our own Buffalo, New York, municipal authorities are bending over backwards to provide bicycle lanes, as if the bicycle is the solution to to the automobiles that clog our streets. It's beginning to happen in Rome.

The idea that bicycles can materially replace cars in Rome is questionable, at least, and the reconstruction of via Panama demonstrates that it can be taken to an unhelpful extreme. There is already talk of redoing the project, of cutting it back. That won't be cheap.

Bill